Choosing a wok comes down to one question: how does it handle high heat? Stir-frying is fast, hot cooking, and the pan has to keep up.
Nonstick woks
Easy to clean at first, but most nonstick coatings aren't meant for the very high heat stir-frying needs, and the coating wears over time. Once it scratches, the pan is usually on its way out.
Cast-iron woks
Cast iron holds heat beautifully, but it's heavy and slow to respond. A cast-iron wok can weigh several kilograms, which makes tossing food tiring, and it takes a long time to heat up and cool down.
Thin iron and carbon steel woks
This is what most stir-fry cooks use. Thin iron heats quickly, responds fast when you turn the burner up or down, and is light enough to lift and toss. There's no coating to wear out: you build a natural nonstick surface by seasoning it with oil. The more you cook, the better it gets.
What about the hammered finish?
A hammered wok has a surface covered in small dimples. Besides looking great, the texture gives food something to rest on when you push it up the side while the next batch sears in the center.
The bottom line
For everyday stir-frying at home, a thin iron wok with a flat base is the most versatile choice. If you're ready to try one, meet the Hammerwok, and read our seasoning guide first.